Showing posts with label Pittsburg County. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Pittsburg County. Show all posts

Sunday, February 12, 2017

Ulan, a former Community in Pittsburg County, Oklahoma, and Some of Its Early Residents

Ulan is considered the hometown of my great grandparents and their families. My grandfather and 4+ generations of my family are buried in the Ulan Cemetery, but there is very little information about Ulan to be found, both online and in written resources. A Google search of the town will currently yield a Google Maps location of the cemetery and other listings of the cemetery, some weather reports of the area, some property listings, and some information on the Pittsburg County Historical Society website I submitted to them. The Wikipedia page for Ulan is blank. The Pittsburg County Historical Society has limited information on the town, due to the overall lack of written resources in existence. Most of what they have on Ulan in their otherwise extensive records on Pittsburg County and Oklahoma in general is confined to the published History of Pittsburg County book.

Unfortunately, I have not been able to find too much extra information about Ulan. Even the authoritative Ghost Towns of Oklahoma by John W. Morris (1978, The University of Oklahoma Press, Norman, OK) neglects to mention it (in fact, the only Pittsburg County ghost town it goes into detail on is Adamson, and makes only passing references to Dow and Alderson). But I would like to compile all that I have into this article so at least what I have found will be accessible in one spot, and hopefully it will be one of the top search results in the future when others Google "Ulan, Oklahoma". I'm sure there will be other families, like mine, who are connected to Ulan and will want to learn more about it. So I'm going to share as much as I can, and add to this if I uncover more in the future.

It should be pointed out from the outset that this post is not purely historical and informational. It is also genealogical in nature. As this is my genealogy blog that might be obvious, but in case as you're reading you're wondering why there are so many references to my family throughout this post, it's because my family is my point of reference for this community. I've learned what I know about Ulan from being a part of this family and speaking to members of it, so it is easy for me to tie in my family's experiences into the general narrative about the area. I believe it's safe to assume that their experience around Ulan was fairly typical of what most families experienced, so tying them into the narrative is beneficial both genealogically and historically, in my opinion. My target audience for this post are people with ties to Ulan, and if someone has ties to Ulan, they probably have ties to my family by blood, marriage, or as former neighbors. That said, both the historical and the genealogical information should complement each other.

First, I'll show on a map of northern Pittsburg County where Ulan lies. The people who would have considered themselves members of Ulan's population lived in both Scipio and Indianola townships, and later in Bucklucksy Township as well, which is immediately south of Indianola Township. Ulan was in Indianola township, but on the very border, less than a mile from Scipio township. All that really exists of the town now are the cemetery and the Ulan Baptist Church. The store is long gone, and the schoolhouse was torn down several years ago. It is just off the Indian Nation Turnpike off the Indianola exit. This first image shows its location in relation to the communities of Hanna and Indianola. (Source: Google Maps)



This next one shows where Ulan is located in relation to the Indianola exit of the Indian Nation Turnpike. The green patch is the cemetery, and the church is directly in front of it. (Source: Google Maps)


Here is a more detailed map of northern Pittsburg County, with Ulan circled in red. (Source: http://www.travelok.com/files/genealogy/Pittsburg.pdf)



These are photos I took of the area around the cemetery and church in March, 2016 to give an idea of how it looks today.






Next, I'd like to share a video. Recorded in 2000, it is of my grandfather, Don Vaughan, showing off the Scipio school he attended, his family's homestead near Ulan, the Scipio Creek that runs through Ulan, and finally, the Ulan Cemetery, where his parents, all 4 grandparents, and one set of great grandparents are interred. He now rests there himself.


The Pittsburg County Historical and Genealogical Society released a Pittsburg County History book in 1997 which has a small excerpt about Ulan. 80% of the article is duplicated verbatim from Ulan Memories, a small booklet about Ulan released in the 1980s. Only the last two paragraphs are not from that publication. I am going to transcribe those two paragraphs, and the remainder of the article's contents is shared below in my transcription of Ulan Memories.

Please note I DID NOT WRITE THIS EXCERPT. It comes from "Pittsburg County, Oklahoma: People and Places", copyright 1997 from the Pittsburg County Historical and Genealogical Society, Inc. Published by Henington Industries, Inc. out of Wolfe City, Texas. This particular article within the book is credited to Judy C. Thompson, with the sources for the information listed as Kenny L. Brown (the compiler of the information in Ulan Memories), and Faye Hayes. If copied in any way, full credit and citation needs to be given to the Pittsburg County Historical and Genealogical Society, Inc.

Page 554: "Faye Hayes writes that her mother, Effie Blevins Smith Bankston, born April 4, 1912, told her that she could remember when she was a little girl and went to school in the new building. Often in the course of the day she would fill her sock-cap with wood blocks and small scraps of boards and carry them home to play with. Some of the teachers she remembers were M. P. Jones, Will Rye, Mrs. M. P. Jones, Ella Cummings, Mrs. Walker, Ralph Byington, Merl Byington Wadley, Gertrude Shackleford, and Frankie Bowen.

The store at Ulan was built about the same time the new school was erected. It was owned and operated by the M. P. Jones family. They carried essentials there, basic line of groceries, patent medicines, and kerosene (everyone had kerosene lamps then). There was a gasoline pump and for several years a small post office. At least its where a lot of people picked up mail and she remembered occasionally a letter would be mistakenly sent to Vian instead of our Ulan. Sources: Kenny L. Brown; Faye Hayes, Rt. 2, Box 220, McAlester, OK. Written by Judy C. Thompson."

Before the town of Ulan was established, many of the people who would eventually be a part of Ulan lived in an area called Thurman. How early Thurman was settled is unclear, but its post office was established by 1888, according to a letter in the Muskogee Phoenix newspaper, transcribed later in Ulan Memories. By 1892, my great great grandfather, John Lafayette Vaughan, married his first wife there, and they both listed their residences as Thurman. You can view the original 123 year old document, which is in my possession, below.


John was widowed in 1897, and in 1898 he remarried to my great great grandmother, Leona Waller. At that time, they also both listed their residence as Thurman, Oklahoma. It is worth noting that when John's first wife (her initials are S. A. on the marriage record, supposedly for Sarah Ann, but her headstone says Eva) died, she was interred at Choate Prairie Cemetery, which is just a couple miles up the road from Ulan Cemetery.

According to Colleen Vaughan Allen, who grew up in and around Ulan, Choate Prairie is where most people in that vicinity were buried prior to the establishment of Ulan Cemetery. She would always say that her grandmother (the aforementioned Leona Waller Vaughan) was the second person buried at Ulan Cemetery, which appears to be accurate based on marked graves in the cemetery. The first established burial with a marker is Cecil Gordon, who died at six years old on 5 Jun 1919. Leona was next, dying 31 Jul 1919. There are six other marked burials in the cemetery dated in 1919, which seemingly establishes the date that the cemetery began as June, 1919.

There are significantly more graves in Choate Prairie marked with blank field stones than Ulan has, so it is more difficult to firmly establish when it came into use. It appears the two earliest burials are from the Choate family, both occurring in December, 1881. Tennissee Choate died 18 Dec 1881 according to her headstone, followed shortly by Jincy Choate on 31 Dec 1881. These were the only two burials I found with these years, with several in 1882 and 1883, and increasing in number by year until around the 1910s, when the number of burials slowly starts to decline. This aligns with approximately when Ulan Cemetery came into use, so the timeline makes sense.

Also in the immediate vicinity and in use during the same time-frame as Choate Prairie is a burial ground today referred to as the Turner McElhaney Cemetery, which is less than a mile from the Choate Prairie Cemetery and is also off Choate Prairie road going toward Indianola proper. The earliest marker burials are (or were) dated in 1891. The oldest recorded burial was for William Foster Turner, who died 1 Jan 1891. The next recorded burial was for Amanda Smith Napier Vaughan Jones, the mother of the aforementioned John Lafayette Vaughan. She died 17 Nov 1891.

The cemetery is in on private property, but as it turns out, the owner's wife was a 2nd cousin to both myself and the cousin who brought me, Charlie Vaughan, and we were permitted entry. It is divided into three sections. The first is a fenced section which houses several Turner family graves; it appears mostly intact. The second section is un-fenced and has sustained heavy damage, apparently from either turbulent weather or from machinery passing through the area, or both. The third section has mostly McElhaney graves, and is also fenced, but half the fence is damaged and torn down, and some of the headstone here were damaged or missing as in the second un-fenced section.

Here is a map showing the route from Ulan Cemetery to Choate Prairie Cemetery to the Turner McElhaney Cemetery, in relation to Indianola.


These are photographs of the three sections of the Turner-McElhaney Cemetery. The second section's photo is blurry because it was screen-shot from a video filmed while surveying the area. I failed to take a proper photo of it, though it only has broken bases of headstones and field-stones and no longer has any standing headstones. It was taken from the vantage of the 3rd section of the cemetery, where the McElhaney graves are.




Many of the headstones that have been previously recorded as being at the Turner-McElhaney Cemetery are now gone, including my aforementioned 3rd great grandmother Amanda Napier Vaughan Jones's stone, which would have been in the mostly-lost second portion of the cemetery. Fortunately, we have a photo of my cousin Colleen Vaughan Allen lifting the stone back into place (even then when it was taken in the 1970s or 80s, it had already fallen) that gives us its text and information.


The persons buried in this cemetery would have been near what was considered Thurman and later near Ulan, but more a part of the Choate Prairie community. Choate Prairie had its own post office from 1894 to 1904, with a church having been established in 1879 just south of where the cemetery would come to be located in 1881, called the Choate Prairie Baptist Church. Choate Prairie had its own school as well until 1930, when like Ulan later was, it was annexed into Indianola schools. (Source: Pittsburg County, Oklahoma: People and Places, 1997, Pittsburg County Historical and Genealogical Society, Inc., Published by Henington Industries, Inc.)

Another early area cemetery was the Dunagan Cemetery. When heading north on Choate Prairie road before the road veers east, there is a private drive going west. The cemetery is located off that drive very near the turnpike. Members of the Perkins, Steward, Bowen, Dunagan, Brown, Beame, and Lewis families, among others, are buried there. Headstones date from 1879 to 1925, so burial there can be established two years prior to graves at Choate Prairie. There are less than 30 legibly marked graves that have been located there.

As I have not found school records or any other "official" records for Ulan prior to the 1920 School Census other than the establishment of the Ulan Post Office in 1917 (the record of which does not give a precise location), I have based Ulan's general area on the residences of my family in each federal census up to that point. In 1900, the John L. Vaughan family is found in enumeration district 78, township 8 N, range 14 E. (https://familysearch.org/ark:/61903/1:1:MST7-63Y) This 1900 Indian Territory Enumeration District website confirms that this is within Pittsburg County, but without determination of where in relation to the Canadian River it lay: http://www.okgenweb.org/~itgenweb/itprojects/census/1900-it-eds.htm.

Circa 1902: Leona Vaughan, wife of J. L. Vaughan, holding son Sampson, with son Cotnar next to them. This is the only known photo of Cotnar, who died in 1907 at age 8.

Surnames in the immediate vicinity of the Vaughans in the 1900, which would be other families living in what would have been around Thurman and what would later be considered the Ulan vicinity include: Moody, Green, Beesley, Taylor, Barlow, Willingham, Richey, Kindrick, Flannigan, Whitehead, Epps, Tomlin, Utterback, Daniels, Miller, Nichols, Price, Cates, and many more.

In the 1910 Census, the Vaughans are listed in Indianola Township, Pittsburg County, Oklahoma (https://familysearch.org/ark:/61903/1:1:MLWS-524). I am certain that they fell in the vicinity of Ulan thanks to a school photograph taken at the Union Prairie School between 1910 and 1920. A copy was held by Colleen Vaughan Allen, and labelled the girl in the white hat beneath the bell by the school to be my aunt, Lou Ona Vaughan. It says 1909 on the back, but Lou One was only 6 years old at that time and would not have been so tall and at the back of the crowd of children. If guessing by Lou Ona's apparent approximate age, I would say it was more likely taken about 1914-15, likely not long before the old school house was torn down and the new one built in 1915, according to the above report from Pittsburg County, Oklahoma: People and Places.


When comparing the above structure with the photograph below of the schoolhouse in 1926, it is clear they are different buildings. This one is significantly smaller, with far fewer windows. So this must be the original Union Prairie/Ulan school house, and this is the only photograph of it that I have located.

Unfortunately, none of the other persons in the photo are identified, but if one had school-age children in their families around Ulan around 1914-1915, there's a chance they could be in this photo. It is likely my great grandfather, Sampson Vaughan (born 1901), is in the group, and likely his brother John D. (born 1906) as well. Depending on how early they started him in school, my uncle Charles Vaughan (born 1909) could also possibly be there. As Colleen was John's daughter and she did not identify him in the photo, I doubt I would have better luck at picking out faces than she, so I'm not going to attempt any guesses.

This is the best photograph of the Union Prairie/Ulan school house I have come across. The label says it was taken in 1926 and was the best example of how the school looked in the early 20th century. I do not know who owns the original; my copy came from Colleen Vaughan Allen.


Next is a photograph of the John L. Vaughan family and their home, taken approximately 1915-1916, based on the children's approximate ages, and the fact that Dewey (b. 1917) had not been born yet. I believe their residence would have been fairly standard for that time period and geographic locale. Left to right are: Lou O. Vaughan, Sampson L. Vaughan, Leona A. Vaughan, Nicie J. Vaughan, John D. Vaughan, John L. Vaughan, and Charles T. Vaughan.


The approximate location of this home can be found on the map below; I visited the location in March, 2016 with the help of Charlie Vaughan, or "Charlie Boy" as the family knows him. He is the son of Junior P. Vaughan, son of Charles T. Vaughan, son of John L. Vaughan. His grandfather showed him the location of the house in the 1960s.


The above is a screenshot taken using the Google Maps App while standing in the approximate area where the house stood. It shows its relation to the Canadian River and Indian Nation Turnpike today.

Moving to the 1920 Census, by this time two of my great great grandfathers were living in the Union vicinity. John Grady Auston came from Tennessee by train to Ada, Oklahoma, where they stayed for two years before moving to the Ulan area; this John's mother was Sarah Frances Elizabeth Epps, of the aforementioned Epps family who could be found in this vicinity as early as 1891, when her brother John was buried at Choate Prairie. John G. Auston and John L. Vaughan both had households in Scipio Township, Pittsburg County. Other heads of household directly connected to these families and also lying in Scipio Township were the households of W. J. Swift, S. L. Newman, Rufus Smith, W. C. Davis, William Epps, W. C. Epps, and W. R. Vaughan.

Scipio Township takes up 36 pages of the Census record as a whole in 1920, and the first 22 are listed as households on "the NW side of Scipio Creek", according to page 11B (or the 22nd page) of the Census record. What is interesting is that despite all of these homes being in immediate proximity to one another based on the order of the households in the Census, the families were split between two different schools. A number of families in this area were sending their children to Union Prairie/Ulan, while quite a few more were sending their children to Byington School. So the history of Byington directly corresponds with the history of Ulan, as many of the people who would say they're from Ulan (including my great grandmother, Lillian Auston Vaughan) actually attended Byington school, even while living by and near those who went to Union Prairie/Ulan school.

For information on Byington, we will turn once again to Pittsburg County, Oklahoma: People and Places, page 478: "Byington School was located in Section 33, T-7-N, R-13-E. The first building was a one-room log building. Dave Byington donated the land. His son, Simon, was the teacher. The school was there by 1911. There was a $2 fee for students to attend to help cover expenses.

Tux Bowen recalls walking 1¾ miles to school. The lunch was sausage, biscuits and jelly and of course, carried in a lard bucket to keep it fresh. Tux also remembers teachers: Ella Wilkerson and John Turner. The school board was L. H. Bowen, Dede Anderson and John Clifton. Other teachers were Miss Maxine Messel, Myrtle Bangs, and Merle Byington.

As the school population grew a second building was built just north of the first one. Some of the people in the community decided to change the name to Pleasant Valley, but after disagreeing, a vote was taken and it was changed back to Byington. The school was used for pie suppers, and the annual Christmas tree.

The mountain just north of Byington was used to survey the county. . . . On June 10, 1941, Byington School closed its doors and was annexed to Indianola. Source: Tux Bowen. Written by Sue Countz."

I left out the list of students from 1920 where the ellipsis is placed, because in a later post I am going to share all of the Byington and Union Prairie/Ulan School Census records from 1920-1930 all together. At least one of the teachers of Byington and Union Prairie/Ulan overlapped, and as the census indicates, so it is clear that these schools both served the Ulan population. A school census was conducted regularly in Pittsburg County, and several of them have survived. The 1920 and 1930 School Censuses have been compiled and published into two volumes, and are available at the Pittsburg County Historical and Genealogical Society in McAlester. It contains valuable information for those researching families that were inhabitants of Ulan and the surrounding area. 

The school census provides the names, ages, dates of birth, and parent/guardian of each child enrolled in school. The birthdates are extremely valuable to persons researching their family, and the guardians can also reveal information in the cases where a child isn't being raised by a biological parent. The "Pittsburg County School Enumeration - 1920" books did not have publishing information or the year it was published on the books that I could locate. Volume I covered schools beginning with A through H., and Volume II covered letters I-W. I would assume it was likely compiled and published by the Pittsburg County Historical and Genealogical Society. Byington was listed as district number 26 in 1920. Ulan was number 24, and Indianola was 25. 

Below are the school district maps copied from the first pages of Volumes I and II. My copy of the first map turned out very blurry, and I'm sorry for that. I've kept it because it precisely shows where Byington was, though it does not show Union Prairie/Ulan, and the 2nd map is the reverse, labeling Ulan but not Byington. On both versions of the map, Byington is circled in red, Ulan in blue, Indianola proper in green, and the Indianola school district number in orange.



Other schools nearby both Byington and Ulan were Rocky Point (89), Scipio (37), Oak Hill (32), Shady Grove (33) Nale (111), Hulowe (35), and Choate Prairie (36). It is possible that some inhabitants of Ulan attended schools other than Union Prairie/Ulan and Byington, but most appear to have been in these two schools. Some students of Choate Prairie and Scipio schools may have considered themselves residents of Ulan. My grandfather, as he said in the video above, attended Scipio School in the 1930s and 40s when the family lived in Bucklucksy Township, directly south of Scipio and Indianola townships, but Ulan was their post office until the family moved to McAlester in the late 1940s after a brief stint in California.

The very best place for information on Ulan I have found, in which the most complete history of the town can be found, is from a small booklet called Ulan Memories, a self-published work compiled and edited by Dr. Kenny L. Brown and Andrea Slaton. I have not found it listed in any library catalogs on World Cat, and have not found any other copies of it on the internet. Other than a section within the "Tobucksy News" newsletter series in May 2002, I found no reference to "Ulan Memories" anywhere. 

I have made contact with Dr. Brown, whose great grandfather was a pioneer in the Ulan area and whose parents and family are buried at Ulan. He reports that he never published a 2nd issue of Ulan Memories, but may someday once he collects and organizes all of the information he has subsequently collected. He gave me full permission to transcribe and share all of the information within his publication; he considers all of the information to be public domain. He gave two copies of the booklet to me, one of which I kept and the other I have donated to the Pittsburg County Historical Society.

As I think others should have access to this information, and it is not currently in publication or available anywhere that I can locate, I will transcribe the pamphlet and share it here for those interested in Ulan and its families, with the exceptions of the Dunagan Cemetery survey and the School Censuses. Any additional notes from me will be bracketed with my initials, like so: [NM]. 


Preface
This small collection of information is offered to help record some of the history of the Ulan community. All items are reproduced exactly as the original sources; spelling and punctuation have not been altered. Similar volumes will be produced for future Ulan reunions. . . . 

Part I – In The Early Years

Introduction
Settlers first came to the present-day Ulan community probably in the late 1870’s and early 1880’s. The area was then a remote part of the Choctaw Nation. These first settlers were Choctaws; a few were full bloods but most were mixed bloods. They began staking off claims to land and immediately leased much of their holdings to white sharecroppers. Some of the Indian families were the Byingtons, the Andersons, the Archibalds, the Beamses, and others.

With the arrival of whites, the first post office in the vicinity opened in 1888 at Thurman, a small cluster of houses about two miles northeast of the present-day Ulan cemetery. That post office operated until 1902 when its name changed to Garner. In 1906 the Garner post office closed.

During the 1890’s and early 1900’s, the Ulan community was known as Union Prairie. The name was changed in 1917 when the Ulan post office was opened. Ulan was named after Ulan Jones, nephew of postmistress Alma Jones.
___________________

[NM: In the next section, the old Dunagan Cemetery was transcribed. A complete transcription of this cemetery can be found on FindAGrave.com here: http://findagrave.com/cgi-bin/fg.cgi?page=cr&CRid=2210802&CScn=Dunagan&CScntry=4&CSst=38&]
___________________

Interview with J. H. Steward
Interview by Grace Kelley, May 19, 1937, Henryetta, Oklahoma

J. H. Steward was born on the Twelve Mile Prairie which was southeast of Tishomingo. When he was just a kid they moved to Choate Prairie where the Scipio Creek emptied into the South Canadian River on the east side. His father was a farmer and a stockman. The farms were about the size of a good garden now.

The closest railroad was at McAlester.

MAIL

Their mail was brought to Thurman, the nearest Post Office, from McAlester by horseback. As Thurman was twenty miles from McAlester it would take all day for the carrier to make the trip.

THURMAN

There was a grocery store and Post Office at Thurman and every Saturday the Indians would come to the store for their groceries.

INDIAN SHOPPERS

On Saturday there would be an extra clerk interpreter hired for the day, which would make two clerks in the store. When the Indians came, one of them, usually a woman, would peek in the door. The others would line up behind her in a long line of men and women. When the clerks’ backs would be turned she would run un the store and all the others would follow her as close as they could, just like sheep following their leader. When they got in the store they didn’t start buying immediately but would stand around for a while. Then one of them would buy a nickle’s worth of coffee or sugar, just a little of this and a little of that. I don’t know why they bought in that way unless it was that they didn’t have enough money to buy more.

HOW THEY MADE A LIVING

The women raised the corn and served it in several different ways besides making flour for bread out of it. The men hunted for the meat that they are and there was all kinds of wild meat including hogs. These hogs belonged to the nation and whenever an Indian wanted to kill a hog he could; and if he sold it the money was his to buy whatever he wanted. A white man couldn’t kill the hogs without paying for them. These hogs had been tame ones which had gone wild, or in other words, they had been turned loose and raised their young, and foraged for their food as no one fed them. Just as an old hen will steal a nest and hatch her chickens, raise them without help from anyone and they will be so wild that nobody can catch them. The Indians also sold hides to buy groceries.

EARLY SCHOOLS

When I started to school there was only three months of school and it was in the winter. It was a log house with one window in each side by they had no glass in them, just shutters. The seats were logs split open and the flat sides hewed to make them smooth; holes were bored in the round side for the legs to go in; there was no backs on them. A fireplace was on the north side of the wall that would hold an eight foot rail. It was made that way on purpose so it wouldn’t take so much cutting and make a better fire; one that would last longer, too. Sara Duncanon was the teacher and a mean one too. There were twenty or twenty-five pupils and each had to pay two dollars a month tuition. It was on Judge Fulson’s place between Thurman and Choate Prairie. He was County or District Judge of the Choctaws.

Later they built us a two-story box house. It was built by a lodge and I think it was the Masons. I never will forget how proud we were of our new seats, the finest benches we had ever seen. They were slat benches with backs on them, like they have at revivals now.

Then I boarded and went to school at Indianola. All of the early schools for white children were subscription schools.

INDIAN NEIGHBORS

Our nearest neighbors lived two miles away “just two miles to our neighbors house,” and we really thought it was near because other neighbors were so much farther away. His name was Allen Arch Archiebull, fullblood Choctaw, who had two wives, an older one and a young one who had two children, a girl and a boy. The eldest was Wy-kee, and the youngest Charlott and both were Creeks. I just want to say that there were never better neighbors than the Indians were. They would do anything for you that they could.

ALLOTMENT STORY (SNAKES)

Archiebull was a Snake the same as Chito Harjo, which meant that he refused to allot. He wouldn’t speak English at all. I don’t know whether he could, but I could speak both Choctaw and Creek at that time. I can’t speak either now.

He was arrested and put into jail. Now remember he hadn’t committed any crime except not filing. They cut his pretty long black hair and he either grieved or took cold and died. He left plenty of hogs and cattle to keep his family, but people stole the property and the two wives died, leaving the children who were fourteen and sixteen years old.

Tom Beams was a Choctaw officer of Pittsburg County for thirty-two years before and after Statehood, both in Pittsburg and Toboxi (Coal)—Permit Collector, Choctaw Officer Deputy Sheriff and one term as Sheriff.

Someone went to Tom Beams and told him that something should be done with Archiebull’s children, that both women were dead, the stock was all gone and they had gone “wild”. I guess they were just living on what they could hunt. They lived in an out-of-the-way place, you had to cross the Scipio two miles from the mouth of it, where it went into the Canadian, or go around the mountain.

Tom Beams felt very bad about not knowing about them, as if he had neglected them and was at fault. He and three or four men on horses went there and sure enough, they were as wild as turkeys. They first roped the boy and tied him up, then they roped the girl and took them and sent them to school. The boy lives in Eufaula now; I’m not sure where the girl is; they made a fine man and woman, half Choctaw and half Creek.

Tom Beams’ mother and brother live close to Ulan; anybody in Ulan can give you directions to their home. The brother is sixty-one years old.

Tom took sick and they had to operate on him and when you operate on a Choctaw you might as well cut off his head. For some reason he will die and I do not know why.

RANCHERS I KNEW WELL

Old J.J. McAlester had a big ranch on Gaines Creek, north of McAlester and a feeding farm at Thurman, two ranches. His brand was: 6-6 and he rubbed one ear but I don’t remember which. That meant he had one ear cut off even with the head; it was an easy brand to see, in fact you could see it almost as far as you could see the cow and it would be hard to anyone to steal.

He had a long bear and was the cleanest man you ever saw. He drove a good buggy team and when he was passing he would call me to him or he would come in for a while, and say, “John, I’m going to the farm and I want a box of quail when I come back.” I’d get my traps fixed and I’d always have them for him when he got there.

One time father hid him in a boot box when some fellows were wanting to kill him (I don’t know why). Boots were knee high and good ones came standing up in a wooden box, a little bit like a cedar chest but not exactly. Dad put the lid on until they were gone and then McAlester left on the train for a short while.

Dick Coleman had a ranch at Scipio, the C-, and a big store at McAlester. He also lived at McAlester.
Rex Chestill was west of Canadian Switch; we did part of our trading at Canadian Switch; it was just a post, not a town. Old George Choate was the oldest settler and Choate Prairie was named for him. He was a Representative to the old Choctaw Council. His hewed log house is still standing. To go there on the main highway from Ulan to Indianola, go east past a big brick school about a mile, the old Choate ranch is on the right hand side of the road.

L. H. Perkins, my uncle, was a farmer and rancher but his wife was a white woman. He went to Washington a number of time, and to the Council at Tuskahoma. He helped build and move Indianola to the railroad. There was a post office, drug store, eleven or twelve stores, two gins, one grist mill, and one bank. Dr. Eubanks was the second doctor and is there now. Dr. Johnson was the first but is dead. There were good schools and churches there. One of my cousins owns the old place which is southeast of Indianola and lives there and a niece is teacher in a Consolidated school at Indianola.
Charlie McDuff had a nice large ranch six miles south of Indianola but lived at Canadian.

There were all Choctaws; they were more enlightened than the Creeks and could talk English; most of the Creeks had to have interpreters.

ROUND-UP TIME

When Round-up time came each ranch that could afford it sent one or two men. It would take from thirty to sixty days. We would have one chuck wagon and the hardest job was to find it at night. There were no fences and the cattle would stray a long way from the home ranch. We would start at one ranch and each man would have a certain direction to hunt. All different brands were put in a bunch, driven to the next stop and we scoured as far around that stop as we could, then went on until we were through. At the end of round-up the cattle were separated and sent to the right ranch. If we passed a ranch and had some of their cows, we would leave them.

If a farmer was too poor to send a man we would keep a watch for his cattle the same as if he were there.

DR. ROBERTSON OF HENRYETTA

The first time I saw Dr. Robertson, he was grown, and he was clearing hickory and blackjack at the school with the wooden shutters. He lived with his mother and two brothers, Lon and Iremy, and he was called I. W. He had some hogs and a violin, which paid his way when he left to learn to be a doctor. He first started to doctoring at Watsonville, which was where the K. O. & B. railroad bridge is, near Dustin, although there was no Dustin there then. When I was passing through I saw his sign hanging out and, of course, I knew who it was and got acquainted with him again.

POLECAT AND BUZZARD WAR GAINS AND TOBOXI COUNTIES, CHOCTAWS

When I was very small, I had a saddle pony, and my father, some men and I rode down a ride. They carried a white flag so they wouldn’t get shot. The Polecats were lined up on one side and the Buzzards on the other, not firing but ready.

Some man came before they had started shooting and rode down between them with a white flag and whatever he told them, kept them from killing each other. I was so small that I can’t remember any thing except how they looked. I don’t know if I was ever told what their quarrel was about or who the man was, but I’ve always thought he was from their Council.

_______________________________________________________________
EXPERIENCES OF PIONEER CHILDREN,

BY MRS. J. H. STEWARD

I can’t remember anything to be interviewed about but there were two or three things I remember well, I guess they were imprinted on my mind firmer because I was so afraid.

I was reared on Blue River near where Mr. Steward was, but I was like a little wild thing. My sister and I would have to go after the cows and sometimes they would be a long way from the house. The tumbleweeds were higher than our heads, and whenever we would see anyone coming, whether they were in a covered wagon or horseback, we would hide in those tumbleweeds sometimes crawling a long ways. It’s a wonder we weren’t shot for some animal.

One time a circus came through there, several wagons and behind were some camels. Men were riding the longest ones and some smaller ones were following, which had leads tied on them. I was too scared to enjoy the sight for I was sure that some of the wild animals would get out of those wagons and eat us before we could get away.


Another time mother had been reading us a story of how the Indians scalped the white people. Father had some cows that he couldn’t keep up so he had made a rail fence so high that they couldn’t jump over it. It must have been ten or twelve feet high. I liked to climb up and sit in the forks that were formed at the top of the posts that held the rails in place. One day I was sitting on my perch when I saw some horses coming. The first were paint ponies, a lot of them. Behind these were some Indians who had stripes painted on their faces and arms. Some of the stripes went cross or around, others were lengthwise their arms, black and red. They had a thing (britch-clout) on with fringe on it. Their shoes were like sandals. They had no saddle and no bridles. They just sat up there and the horses went without guidance unless it might have been spoken or knee pressure, I couldn’t see any. Behind them came a bunch of white horses and they were all pretty and fat, not as some people think the Indian horses were; and then another bunch of Indians. The last one looked like old Jackson Barnett used to look. He had a thing on his horse like a rope, with loops in both ends to put his feet in, but that was all of the harness that bunch of Indians had. I don’t know who they were or where they came from, as my parents weren’t interested when I told them and just said that they were passing through. They may have been Western Indians with a passport to take the horses through to sell. I don’t know. They wore no clothing except the cloth with fringe and sandals.

NOTE: The above interview is from Vol. X of the Indian-Pioneer Papers, a collection of 100 volumes of typed manuscripts. They were compiled under the direction of Grant Foreman during the 1930s as a WPA project. A complete set of the manuscripts is at the Archives and Manuscripts Division, Oklahoma Historical Society, Oklahoma City. [NM: The full collection has now been digitized; Mr. Steward's interview can be viewed here, and others can be searched on the left hand side of the page: https://digital.libraries.ou.edu/whc/pioneer/paper.asp?pID=6079&vID=87]

_____________________________________________________________

Article from the Muskogee Phoenix, May 10, 1888, p. 2, c. 3

Thurman, May 1, 1888

As our place was born to-day, I know you have not heard from it before, therefore I will give to you the first report ever given from our proud new place or post office. We have long felt the need for a post office here, but never succeeded until today. While it is the means of accommodating hundreds of citizens; it will also be the steppingstone to many subscribers to your newsy paper. C. Goulie Rodman is our postmaster as well as our popular merchant man.

Farmers have the best prospect for a good crop that has ever been known in this section, and we have at last gotten enough rain. We now hope to reach the straw and dewberries before our supplies fall, and then we will be "all honky-dory."

We have a church, Sunday-school and prayer-meeting regularly every week, and a wheel that meets at the appointed time regardless of the weather, amidst the storm and pouring rain last week. Three rode the goat, three others arranged to get on, while three more unfortunates got thrown off.

[signed] Sipeo

_______________________________________________________________

Part II - The Ulan School

Introduction

In the Ulan community,  as elsewhere in rural areas, the local public school became the center for many community activities. It was so important that it provided much of the identity for the community.

The original school was called Union Prairie School in the latter part of the nineteenth century; the name was changed in 1917 with the establishment of the Ulan Post Office. Prior to statehood the Union Prairie School was a subscription school--one funded by the parents of students with tuition payments. No government funds were available because Union Prairie was part of the Choctaw Nation, which provided no education for non-Indians.

Eva Grantham Dickens, who attended the school as a girl, recalled that in 1905 the building consisted of one room, 30 by 100 feet, and housed about 100 students. There was only one teacher. At first there were no chairs, but the students sat on benches made of one-by-fours. Students attended class about six months out of the year.

In 1908, just after statehood, a public school district was formed. The boundaries of the district were Scipio Creek on the west, the Canadian River on the north, a line running near Sandy Creek on the east, and an arbitrary line forming the south boundary (see map inside back cover). In 1915 a new school building was built; it remains standing today. Clyde, Charlie, and Riley Stark were the carpenters. Two years after the new school was completed, its name changed from Union Prairie to Ulan.

[NM: Colleen Vaughan Allen claims in her notes that the school's name was never formally/officially changed from Union Prairie to Ulan. She maintains that the name remained Union Prairie, and possessed her report cards from the late 1930s and early 1940s as proof. Pittsburg County Superintendents records name the school Ulan in its school censuses conducted between 1920 and 1930; I cannot account for the inconsistency between those records, and Colleen's report cards from the school, which I have personally viewed.]

The 1920s proved to be the heyday for Ulan school. Teachers during this time included Ella Mitchell and Esther Haggard Ragan. Between 60 and 80 children attended at that time.

Enrollment varied over the years and declined markedly during the 1950s. Ulan school closed in 1963 when it was consolidated with Indianola."


This map comes from within the Ulan Memories booklet on the last page. Dr. Brown reports that the school district was originally about nine square miles in size.

As noted above, Colleen Vaughan Allen reported that the school at Ulan never formally changed its name to Ulan from Union Prairie, at least based on records from the school itself. The school censuses conducted by the county on behalf of the state listed the school as Ulan. Colleen had one picture of students at Ulan while she attended there. I will first share a version without labels, and then two photocopies that include identifications Colleen was able to make herself. The year isn't given, but based on the ages of Colleen and her sister Naomi, this would be roughly 1940, give or take a year or two. Their mother Nellie Kelton Vaughan is also pictured.




Dr. Kenny Brown's mother, Leoma Dickens Brown (1917-1995), was a skilled writer herself. In her later years, she wrote memories of Ulan and various families who inhabited the area. Dr. Brown was kind of enough to give me copies of what was written about my Vaughans, Austons, and Eppses, as well a handful of other stories and narratives about other local families. These have not been published in any form. I will transcribe them here for the benefit of the families mentioned; all spellings remain as Mrs. Brown had them.

[Pages 20-26]

“Honey John” Henley

This story is about a man who lived around Scipio Creek, Ulan, Rock Creek, and Choate Prairie. His name was John Henley. I always thought he was an ole bachelor, but in his obituary a son was mentioned, so I guess he had a wife at one time. All the people that knew him called him Honey Bee or Honey John, for he stayed in the woods looking for bee trees. He also kept hives of bees and was always giving people honey. Some people wouldn’t eat his honey, for he wasn’t too clean or sanitary and besides the honey tasted like smoke.

He always kept a bunch of dogs, and in cold weather they say he would sleep with the dogs in order to stay warm. His houses that he lived in were old shacky houses or little cabins made out of scraps.

At one Ulan reunion he was trying to start a conversation with me, and he got on the honey deal. I asked him why he was so eager to keep bees and hunt in the woods for bee trees. He said he always tried to keep honey on hand to give to widows with bitter lips. Then he asked me if I had bitter lips.
The poor old fellow died dirty and was crusted over. At one time he asked me (at that time I didn’t know who he was) about Alcie Dickens, said he had dated her.

Epps, Austin, and Swift Families

There were a lot of people by the name of Epps, Austin, and Swift that lived around Ulan, Scipio, and the northwest part of Pittsburg County. I hear that they all came from Tennessee.

There were Will or Bill Epps, Walter Epps, and Ole Lady “Aunt Babe” Austin (who was an Epps).

Uncle Bill Epps married “Aunt Mary” Epps. She was a Swift and had been married before to a Gregory. Uncle Bill had been married also. I don’t know who to, but he had two children by his first marriage—Ulvie, a boy, and Alvie, a girl. Aunt Mary had a daughter, Gertrude or “Gertie.”

Mrs. Austin had three boys that I know of—John, “Big” Bill, and “Big” Jim. John had five girls and one boy. The girls were Lillian, who married Sampson Vaughan; Johnie Lee, who married C. D. Epps (her second cousin); Beatrice (Tat), who married Charlie Vaughan; and Pauline (Polly), who married Willie Ross. Elizabeth “Snooks”, married Claud Ross, but she died about a year after she married. Then later, Claud Ross married my mother’s sister, Opal. John’s boy, Walter or “Little Bill”, as we called him, is still living. He married Lorene Prescott from Indianola.

I don’t know who Walter Epps married and not very much about him.

After Uncle Bill Epps married Aunt May, they had several kids. There were Jim, C. D., Laidie, Hester, Marie, and Troy. Troy, or “Dad”, as we call him, was a twin. The other twin died early in childhood. Hester married my mother’s brother, Clifton or “Bud”. All the Epps’ kids are dead but Marie and Laidie.

Aunt Mary had two sisters that I know of. One was Aunt Katie Mathews; the other was a Mrs. Ervin. Aunt Mary also had two brothers—Uncle Bill Swift and George Swift.

Uncle Bill Swift was a jumpy sort of a nervous man. He married a woman who had been married before—Frances White. She had a son, Tony White, and maybe a girl. Tony White married Lou Vaughan, and they had a bunch of kids, the oldest being J. L. White.

Uncle Bill and Francis had quite a few kids—Mae, Edd, John, Fred, Sylvia, Addie, and Pauline.
Uncle George had one son, Valdie.

Uncle Bill called my father “Mr. Sam”, and he always said that people during the depression times had to work hard to raise all the crops, fruit, and vegetables that could be grown. Then they should feed some to the hogs, and what the hogs didn’t eat, the people should eat.

Haggards

There were the Haggards that lived around Indianola and Ulan. I believe they came to Pittsburg County from East Texas. The youngest daughter and son, Esther and Walter, were school teachers. They were good teachers, and all the kids liked them. I went to school to Esther for five years (the 1st and 2nd grades, then 5th, 6th, and 7th grades) at Rock Creek. At Ulan I went to school to Walter in part of the 4th grade, then moved to Rock Creek and finished under a Mrs. O’Neal (who was a sorry teacher to my way of thinking). She sure was crank and mean. She had a stepson who went to school to her, and she would beat the tar out of him for the least things and anyone else if she could find a reason.

There were about eight or nine Haggard sons and daughters, and two lived in East Texas—Robert and Margaret. Daniel, Brad, William, Shelby, Mary, Walter, and Esther lived here around Ulan, Indianola, and McAlester. The only one living now is Esther and she taught school for about fifty years here in Pittsburg county and in California.

Walter got into politics. He served as county school superintendent, County Sheriff, and Tag Agent.


Ole Man S. J. Haggard and his wife, Evelyine, are buried at Ulan. He had two wives, the first one died after he had three or four children. Then, he married his 1st wife’s sister, so his children were cousins and half brothers and sisters.

An Unpopular Teacher at Ulan

There was another teacher at Ulan when I was in the 3rd grade. His name was Frank Walker, and he was from Crowder. He was a strict teacher and would whip and punish kids on the extreme. He was a Seventh Day Adventist preacher. He would preach some at Ulan on Saturday nights.

One time he whipped a girl with a bicycle tire or the rim of a tire and left stripes on her legs, so the next day her father came to school (his name was Webb) and made Mr. Walker throw the tire in the fire or stove and burn it.

Also Mr. Walker whipped a girl (Susie Walters) during the spring on the bare legs with a switch and cut the blood on her legs. He whipped her merely for talking. Mr. Walters (the girl's father) came to school and really told him off.

Mr. Walker started to whip Charlie Vaughan one time (Charlie was in the 4th or 5th grade) for reading a western story book. Charlie ran home or away and said that was his last day of school.

At yet another time Mr. Walker started to whip Ed Swift, and Ed fought him. Ed's older sister went out to the ball diamond, picked up a ball bat, brought it in the house, and intended to use it on Walker--so that ended the ordeal.

Mr. Walker never taught the last couple of days of school that term, for the big boys had planned to beat him up on the last day of school.

Vaughans

There was another family who lived on Scipio Creek, northwest of Ulan. Their name was Vaughan. Where Mr. Lafayette Vaughan came from I never heard, but he was a good friend of Grandpa Dickens and my father. He was red headed, had a handle bar mustache, wore gold rings in his ears, a red bandanna handkerchief around his neck, and a big black stand up crown black hat.

At one time he said he rode with Belle Starr and her gang. Anyway, he knew some of them. He always said that he heard the shot that killed Belle Starr. My father always said that Mr. Vaughan (they called him Fayette) was superstitious. He always believed in stories about black cats and whipperwills singing or calling close to the house.

Mr. Vaughan had a good house or home, and we never knew how he managed to have a good place, land, and buildings. I remember he had a big pond and kept ducks. He had a big garden spot and an orchard, also a big yard with big trees. He usually celebrated his birthday by having a big crowd around, drinking and playing marbles, then a dance at night.

John Lafayette Vaughan, 1902

He had been married three times; his first and second wives died. By his first wife he had two children, a son, Bill, and a daughter, Mattie. Bill wasn't worth a hoot. He married a woman from around Bald Mountain, Sallie Lewis, and they had one daughter, Leona. The story was out that Bill killed Sallie. He later married Eva Greer (Grandpa Dickens' fourth wife), and she ran him off. Then he married Lola Hamilton, and they had three boys. Again he quit her and disappeared. No one ever knew where he went.

Mattie married Marlen Smith (my father knew the Smith family). Marlen and Mattie both are buried at Ulan.

My parents knew the second Mrs. Vaughan, and they liked her a lot. She and Mr. Vaughan had several kids--Sampson, Lou, Charlie, Nicie, and Dewey. We called Dewey "Cutter."

Then after the second Mrs. Vaughan died, he married a widow that he had known for a long time. She lived at Blocker, and she had several kids. Her name was Autrey. She had six daughters and one son. The boy's name was Ray. The girls' names were Ola (married Jess Blevins), Stella (later married Claud Harrelson--her 3rd husband), Maud (retarded), Marie (married Jack Blevins), Beatrice (married Clerance Ballard ), and another daughter (don't remember her name).

The third Mrs. Vaughan was a short and heavy woman. Mr. Vaughan had a Model T Ford. He and Cutter would ride in the front seat, and she would ride in the back. I think he had the first car in the country around Ulan. People traveling in wagons would have to get a way out to the side of the road whenever they met Mr. Vaughan, for the teams to the wagons would get frightened and run away.

John and Florence Lytle Autrey Vaughan and the Model T discussed by Mrs. Brown. 

Mr. Vaughan died in 1944 and is buried at Ulan. The last Mrs. Vaughan is buried at Blocker, I believe.

Some Indian Families Near Ulan

There were lots of Indians around Scipio, Ulan, Rock Creek, and Indianola.

The Parkinses were around Indianola.

Scipio was named after an old Indian by the name of Scipio.

The Andersons and Byingtons lived around the community named Byington. I've heard people talk about the Uncle Dave Byington and the Old Uncle Dave Anderson places.

Simon Byington (Uncle Dav's son) was a school teacher. He had three kids, Merle (a daughter), David, and Ralph. They lived at Ulan but have passed on now.

Almost all of the Beamses lived around Rock Creek community.

There were the Archibulls that lived on the land that Grandpa Dickens bought.

There were the Wades, Billeys, and a family by the name of Fulsom. My Grandma Grantham knew Mrs. Fulsom. She said that Mrs. Fulsom became pregnant and was picking berries down on the branch one day, and her time came, so she stayed down on the branch by herself and had the babies (twin boys). After they were born, she gathered them in her apron, went to the house, and told her husband that she had two this time.

Mr. Wade's name was Esigh. He and Mrs. Wade had a son and a daughter. The boy's name was Lewis, and he was in World War II with the same group that my brother Dodge was in. Lewis wrote letters to my father while he was in the war until he was killed. Lewis delivered mail on mules to the front lines. Dodge saw the explosion that blew the mountain up that Lewis was riding on. After Dodge came home from the war, Mr. Wade kept after Dodge to tell him how Lewis died. Finally Dodge told him and Mr. Wade thanked him and said, "I won't bother you again about it." He was satisfied to know how it happened.

Allfords

I don't know Mr. Allford's real name, but everyone called him Bud. Everyone liked Mr. and Mrs. Allford. They lived at the community called North Mount Homa and had a pretty home for that time. Mrs. Allford was a Miller from around Scipio.

They had one daughter, Mattie, who married a Moore. They lived for a while in Indiana. The other children were all boys, seven of them. I never knew some of them but heard of them.

There was Robert who lived at Pampa, Texas. He was or is John Allford's father (the banker at First National in McAlester). There was also Artie, J. A.'s father. J. A. is a lawyer. Then there was Ben, Miller, Joe, Bill (W. E.), and Jimmie.

My brother Dodge used to chum or run around with Joe and Bill. Bill married Ramona Weddle, the daughter of Virgil Weddle, the grocery store owner at Scipio. Bill and Ramona had two boys, Larry and Ronald, and one daughter, Lynda. Larry and my oldest son, Terry, used to run around together and play ball.
_____________________________________________________________

Here are some other photos and newspaper articles related to Ulan's history, including photos of the school before it was torn down taken by Colleen Vaughan Allen.




Old photo labelled simply "Scipio Creek"; quality is poor, but one can see several folks around what is presumably Scipio Creek.





This is reportedly a photo of the class at Union Prairie School. No year is given, but the blonde boys in the second and third rows wearing the matching bow ties are reportedly George and Tony White, born 1898 and 1901 respectively, so I have estimated this photo to be from between 1908-1910. This would be the old original school before the Ulan school was built.

Finally, this is a neat old folk tale about "One Eye", as told by Ulan-native Charlie Vaughan.

This collection of stories, photographs, and information on the community of Ulan, Oklahoma only begins to scratch the surface of the history of this place. These people were hard-working, resourceful folk that took good care of their families and neighbors both. It is not a place that should be forgotten. Any other materials collected in future will be added.


Monday, August 13, 2012

John Lafayette Vaughan: A Biography of An Oklahoma Pioneer

Originally written 13 Aug 2012

Updated 12 Feb 2020 and 27 Mar 2020

For generations in my family, it was a rumor that my great great grandfather, John Lafayette Vaughan, had some personal connections to and/or was a friend/associate of the infamous outlaw Belle Starr and her family. This bit of family lore was shared with me at a young age, and after asking my great aunt and one of her first cousins, I ended up with solid proof of this friendship/association, and after that, came into even more information.

Years ago, I met a cousin who had heard similar stories about John Vaughan being associated with Belle Starr, stories which were relayed by his grandmother, John Vaughan's daughter Lou Ona Vaughan White. But he was under the impression that certain factions of his large extended family (Lou had many children, and subsequently many grandchildren) did not believe this family legend, and thought Lou was just making it up. So I thought I would begin sharing the information I have in hopes that anyone else descended from John Lafayette Vaughan wondering about his connection to Belle Starr could find this and enjoy it as much as I have. I have since updated this information as-needed.

Originally, I had three pieces of evidence concerning John Vaughan's ties to Belle Starr: typed testimony from his daughter Lou Vaughan White, mentions of him in Glenn Shirley's Belle Starr & Her Times: The Literature, The Facts, and the Legends (1990), and a photocopy of a newspaper article published in the McAlester News-Capital titled "Death of Belle Starr Recalled", a piece by Baird Martin which was a re-telling of an article written by Charles H. Cowles some 35 years prior to the revision. Cowles had actually interviewed John Lafayette Vaughan about Belle Starr and her death. Unfortunately, my photocopy was undated, though I was able to figure out it was published about 1967-68, and Martin did not cite the date of publication for Cowles' original article, so short of sifting through every page of the news paper for two years I had no way to find the original full interview.

Fortunately, in January, 2020, a librarian at the McAlester Public Library named Christopher Elliott took the time to dig through recently-digitized issues of the McAlester News-Capital to find the original article for me. The digital version of the paper is only accessible on-site at the library, so I could not go through it myself from my residence in Michigan. But after playing with several terms in Martin's rehashed article, he located and sent me the original. I have published a full transcription of the full interview here: https://thesaltofamerica.blogspot.com/2020/03/john-lafayette-vaughan-and-belle-starr.html

Finally, a few years ago, a grandson of the aforementioned Lou Vaughan White found a tintype photo he had been looking for: a picture of John Lafayette Vaughan with Sam Starr, husband of Belle Starr. This was the strongest evidence yet of a connection between John and the Starrs-literal photographic proof. But it was still difficult to put the entire figurative picture of John and the Starr family into context without that interview, and now with all these things together, the evidence of their relationship speaks for itself.

All of this information, along with everything else I have collected on John from records and testimony from his grandchildren and other relatives by blood and marriage, has culminated in the biography of John Lafayette Vaughan which I will present here. I feel the information within it is complementary to the testimony he gives in his above-linked interview, and together they paint an interesting picture of a fascinating individual.

Biography of John Lafayette Vaughan
by Nathan Vaughan Marks

John Lafayette Vaughan was born July 19th, 1866 in Pope County, Arkansas. He was the son of Stephen Clinton Vaughan and Amanda Smith Napier. His father contracted chronic diarrhea during the Civil War, and it ailed him so badly that he was hardly able to work, and thus his family lived at near poverty-level. His grandfather, Archibald Hubbard Napier, was a well-known doctor (likely holistic doctor, rather than an MD) in the area and cared for Stephen until his death, at which time Stephen was cared for by a slew of other doctors, most notably a Henry Jones.


Amanda Smith Napier, mother of John, wife of Stephen, and later wife of Henry Jones. 


Stephen Clinton Vaughan, Missouri 8th Cavalry (USA)

John was born at a time of great strife in Pope County, Arkansas. A year prior to his birth, his uncle Captain Archibald Dodson Napier was named sheriff of Pope County at the end of the Civil War, and was subsequently murdered as the first victim of what became known as the Pope County Militia War, which essentially was a local guerrilla war fought between local Union loyalists and Southern sympathizers. The violence in the area became so intense that many families felt compelled to leave the area, including the Vaughans, who settled in Conway County, where his father died of his ailment in 1880. The next year, John and his mother left for Indian Territory, where John was largely left to his own devices, and spent time with Indians and area outlaws. His mother Amanda later became involved with and eventually married one of his father's previous doctors, Henry Jones.


Archibald Dodson Napier and his wife Mary Elizabeth Vaughan. Dodson was the brother of  John's mother Amanda and Mary was the sister of John's father Stephen. 

The information on John's early life is confirmed both by his own testimony and a brief write-up on the Vaughan family history by his daughter, Lou Vaughan White. "John Lafayett Vaughan  rode a horse into Oklahoma when he was 14 years old, he weighed 85 lbs. He lived with and around the Indians for 9 years, then he rad around with some outlaws. He rode with Belle Starr, he was sweet on her daughter, Pearl."  It is worth noting that she spelled Lafayett without an 'e' at the end as it is typically found. The family record kept by John's mother spells his name without the 'e' which may be why Lou opted to spell it that way. In nearly all other circumstances in John's life, Lafayette was spelled with an 'e' at the end.

John himself reported in a 1934 interview with the McAlester News-Capital that he was "turned loose" in Indian Territory in 1881 at the age of 15. “I could be a good boy. I could steal. I could kill. I had no school; no education. Instead of trying to study mathematics and penmanship, I studied horsemanship and gunmanship. But I always managed to keep the good will of the good people. I was born in National park in the Ozark Mountains July 19, 1866. My father was a soldier four years in the Union army and my uncle, Capt. [Napier], also. After the Civil War, my uncle was killed from the brush by a mob while he was sheriff. My father was dead. I was brought here by my widowed mother and older brothers. I rode horseback quite a bit and I practiced shooting and got to be pretty good at it. I have killed many a deer, turkey, and squirrel with a six-shooter."


This is John in his early-to-mid teens. This was probably taken about the time he arrived in Oklahoma. Courtesy of his granddaughter, Colleen Vaughan Allen.

John's associations with famed outlaws Tom Starr and Belle Starr are well-documented. He was reportedly friends with Tom's son and Belle's husband, Sam Starr, and heard the shot that killed him, and was present in the aftermath of Belle's death. From his 1934 interview: “I lived on the place of Martin Crowder, an aged Indian, 40 miles northwest of McAlester on the Canadian river five miles from Tom Starr’s home, and this aged man became very friendly with me and told me what Tom Starr had imparted to him. ... I lived there on the Crowder place and I heard the shot that killed Sam Starr. I was within a mile of the spot where he met death."

As it is in many families that descend from colorful characters, rumors and legends about John have been told for generations. Some have been debunked while others have been seemingly confirmed. One legend about John that has not been proven or disproved is that prior to his first recorded marriage, he had taken an Indian bride and had a child by her.

This is similar to an additional legend that he may be the mystery father of Pearl Starr's daughter, Flossie. In 1887, Belle sent her daughter Pearl away to have an illegitimate child she had been impregnated with, a girl named Flossie who was born in April of 1887. John would have been about 21 years old and still unmarried at this time, and he admits that Pearl was his date to a number of dances when he was a young man, so its not something that can be entirely ruled out, but also can't be proven. Per his 1934 interview: "I went to [Belle's] place lots of times and carried her and her daughter, Pearl, to dance. I carried Pearl to a good many."


Sam Starr, husband of Belle and son of Tom, on left. John L. Vaughan on right. Courtesy of Jerry White. 

Likewise, no record of this supposed Native child has ever been established. But the legend contends that in the 1980s, John's daughter Lou received a phone call from a woman claiming to be a long-lost half-sister by John's relationship with her Indian mother. The caller's name is not known today. Stoking the fires of this legend is a newspaper clipping saved by descendants of the Lou White family that some believe could be a clue to this mystery child. On 11 Sep 1988, a letter to the editor of the McAlester News-Capital included the following tidbit:  "My mother is approaching 90 years and certainly qualifies of at least respectful attention. Having been borned of an Indian mother and a red-headed, blue eyed father, who, by virtue of having been raised by the Indians bears a Cherokee roll number. Her papers claim she was born north and east of Scipio." 

Now John Vaughan certainly does not have a roll number, but he was red-headed, blue-eyed, and lived northeast of Scipio in Ulan 90 years before this letter's publication. He also resided with Indians as a teenager and young man. How many people in that vicinity could meet all that criteria? Not very many, but the letter-writer and his mother's origins remain a mystery. It was signed "Wakana Hanunwau". It is apparently and Indian or even Hawaiian name, but records for a person with this name have not been located, nor has any substantive evidence of a long-lost child of John Vaughan. Some legends are destined to remain so.



John in his early-to-mid 20's. This is likely what he looked like at the time of Belle Starr's death. Courtesy of Colleen Vaughan Allen.

John married Sarah Ann "Eva" McCarty on July 9th, 1892 near Scipio; she bore him two children, Mattie Mae in 1892 and William Riley in  1895. (My research concerning her mysterious parentage can be found here: http://thesaltofamerica.blogspot.com/2017/08/using-dna-to-solve-family-mystery-sarah.html.) When Eva went into labor with their third child, John left to get help, and returned to find her and the newborn dead. By this time, most of his family had moved to Oklahoma as well; his brother Stephen died at Whitefield in 1885 and his mother Amanda near Thurman in 1891, and his brother Archibald settled nearby him in the Scipio area while his brother Thomas settled in McIntosh County.


Grave of Stephen Barnabas Vaughan, brother of John, at Whitefield Cemetery. Died 1885. 

It was while visiting his brother Thomas that he met his brother's sister-in-law, Leona Waller. "[John] and Leona met and fell in love over the breakfast table the first day Leona was in [Oklahoma]. Leona was engaged to a boy named Wells in Arkansas. [John] and Leona ran away to get married, they swam the Canadian River on horseback, they were married at Hullowe, near Scipio [Note: There was a town named Hullowe in Pittsburg County, but they were actually married in Indianola, however, the minister who married them was named Hugh Low, which is probably what led to the confusion]." (Source: Family History by Lou Vaughan White) They were married on February 23rd, 1898.

Further rumors about John revolved around his association with various outlaw gangs, supposedly including the Dalton gang. No one was sure exactly what the extent of his relationship with these groups might have been. Some have been adamant that he never participated in illegal activities, while others are certain that he did. There are several John Vaughans who were arrested and tried (and some sent to jail) in Fort Smith, Arkansas from 1880 to 1900 for various illegal activities in Indian Territory and northwestern Arkansas, but it has not been confirmed whether any of these John Vaughans were John Lafayette Vaughan or not. However, even beyond his own assertions of his connections to Belle Starr and her crowd, there is documentation of his presence in the aftermath of her death.

In 1990, Glenn Shirley and the University of Oklahoma Press published Belle Starr & Her Times: The Literature, The Facts, and the Legends. Much of the information concerning Belle Starr's death stemmed from witness accounts of various neighbors of Starr, and residents of the surrounding area where she was murdered. John, who went by "Fayette" or "Fate" as a shortening of his middle name Lafayette, was mentioned by name in the testimonies of three individuals.

p. 237: Alice (Mrs. Joseph) Tate, who lived a mile from the ambush scene and a half mile from Edgar Watson, heard two guns [shots] in the evening about half an hour by sun. "My husband & Billy England were standing out back of house talking when guns fired. Ben Statham came to our house about dark & told us, & me & my husband & Fayette Vaughn & Billy England went down from our house."

p. 237-238: Ray England, who lived two miles from the White place and a half a mile from Watson, was well acquainted with Belle but he had not seen her for a month until "I seen her dead at Alf White's. Fayette Vaughn on the 3rd day of February 1889 at after dark came to my house to let me know she had been killed and wanted the neighbors to go & take care of her.."

p. 239: Turner England also received news of the killing Monday morning: "Fayette Vaughn brought me word...I went over there...seen blood in road, seen tracks of man I thought done shooting..."

These short excerpts do not give a lot of information as to the extent of Vaughan's relationship to Starr, but they still help flesh out his involvement in the scenes after her death and corroborate the statements in his interview to an extent, though it should be noted that these neighbors claim the shooting occurred in the early evening, while Vaughan said it took place at 2:00 in the afternoon.

John divulged several interesting details about what led to Belle's death and his involvement in the aftermath of it in his 1934 interview. He reported that Belle's son got mixed up into some horse-stealing because of a neighbor by the man of Edgar Watson. Belle threatened to have Watson prosecuted for getting her son into trouble, and he vowed to kill her. Though historical authorities today contend that Belle Starr's killer is unknown and unproven, John insists that it was Watson. After her killing, he reports that he and some other associates investigated the scene of the crime themselves and he shared his conclusions.

"There was brush along the fence for quite a ways and there was an open place in the rail fence. Where the brush stopped there was a small walnut tree on the inside of the fence. That is where Watson hid. He let her pass him and then fired on her. I could see the place where she was shot as the horse stove his feet into the ground there. Three buckshot ranged from her shoulder to her heart. She stuck to the horse about 30 or 40 feet. Then there were the tracks. I could see where he had jumped the fence. She rode sideways all the time. I never saw her without a nice dress. She fell on her right shoulder and arm. There were the tracks where he ran up and shot her in the side of the face with a load of fine shot. She was not dead then, for she had raised her hand to protect her face. He shot the ring from her left ear and we never could find it.


We sat up with the body that night. In the morning, when it was good and light, I looked over the ground. There was shotgun paper all over the tracks of the horse where they stove in."

John also reported being directly involved in Belle's burial proceedings and present at her funeral: "Another man and I dug the grave, three feet, and then others came and helped finish it. She was buried in a nice wooden coffin and a walnut box to set it in. The lumber was taken from the house in which I lived. Edgar Watson had the nerve to attend the funeral and help throw dirt on the coffin. He went in the house and came out with a coat and I thought he had an ashen color to his face."

The Starrs were not the only people on society's fringes with whom John is purported to have been rubbing elbows. Several years ago John's granddaughter Dale Vaughan Sitter was working as a nurse in McAlester when she got to talking with a patient. When he found out she was a Vaughan from the Ulan area, he reported remembering her grandfather. He said that John acquired some of his land from an Indian outlaw named "Natchabull". Further research indicated the man was referring to Allen Narchubby, who was more of an extremist than an outlaw.

Allan Archibald AKA Allen Narchubby was a member of an extremist Choctaw faction called Snake Indians. Per Dr. Kenny Brown, "The Snake Indians were traditionalists who were against land allotments. Allen Archibald was a traditionalist Choctaw who had joined the much-noted Snake Indian movement, refused to take allotment, came under arrest for his activities, and died in jail after suffering the humiliation of having his hair shorn." The story from the aforementioned stranger to Dale Vaughan was that John was present when the authorities came to take him to jail and supposedly signed paperwork giving the rights to his allotment to him, but since Archibald refused to take allotment, the story did not make very much sense.

Documentation provided by Dr. Brown, however, proves that John rented land (most likely farmland) from Allen Archibald, and then from his son Smedlow after Allen's death even though he was just a young boy; Dr. Brown posits that since Allen's wife was Creek on Choctaw land, John could not rent from her. As a white man, John could not own land at this time and had to rent from a Native. A possible translation of the story from the stranger combined with the known facts could be that Allen told John he could buy his land from him, and perhaps John did buy the land once white men were able to purchase Indian land in the Indian Territory. Dr. Brown cites Choctaw Nation Records, Bound Volume #425, Tobucksy County Permits and Licenses, 1899-1905 for the four images of permits between John L. Vaughan and the Archibald men over a four year period.

Dr. Brown reports that once Archibald was arrested and later perished, he "left behind two Muskogee Creek widows who came from the nearby Creek Nation. They also soon died, leaving several parent-less children who were eventually rounded up and sent to an orphanage." Before Archibald's children were rounded up, the federal government sent an Indian Agent to the area where John was living to investigate reports of Archibald's children running wild without care or supervision: Josanna, age 15, Smedlow, age 10-11, twins Cain and Abel, age 8, and a girl called "Etta", "Adda", or "Belle", about age 4. All but the youngest girl were Archibald's children; "Etta" was born after Archibald's death in 1898, reportedly an illegitimate child of Archibald's widow and an unknown white man. The children were occasionally looked after by an older sister, Elsie, age 17, but she came and went and often left them alone for long periods.


Children of Allen Archibald. Cain, Abel, Etta, Smedlow. Taken at The Murrow Indian Orphan’s Home. Courtesy of The Baptist Home Mission Monthly, Volumes 30-31 via Google Books. 

Benjamin Mossman, Esq., came from Muskogee in May 1908 to Indianola. A Mr. Herstein had reported his concerns over the unsupervised children, and Herstein took Mossman to "J. D. Vayghan", whose name he later spells as Vaughan. There were no other Vaughans near Indianola at this time, and Dr. Brown believes Mossman was referring to J. L. Vaughan. Mossman reported that Vaughan "has lived in that part for fifteen years and speaks both Choctaw and Creek. He took us, by boat, two miles up a river or creek then two miles on foot along trails and through forest to a one roomed log hoval [sic] where what remains of the Allen Archibald family exist."

Mossman continued: "The roof is open with holes and the chinks between the logs are mostly gaping. The floor is of earth. There are no beds, but piles of some sort of rag-looking stuff and parts of blankets on the ground serve as such. ... There is no one to care for this little brood unless Elsie can be credited with that office. She is reported to have "gone wrong" and frequently absents herself for days or weeks." Archibald had married a woman unable to have children, so he married her sister as well who bore him his children. Both died in the years following his death and no one took responsibility for the children until Mr. Mossman intervened at this time.

Mossman posited that perhaps Judge George W. Choate, who lived nearby, might accept guardianship of the children. Further, he reported: "Mr. Vaughan stated to me that he would willingly adopt Etta if she were given him by the courts." But neither of these scenarios played out, and all the children were sent to an orphanage for Indian children.


John in his late-20's-to-early-30's. Courtesy of Colleen Vaughan Allen.

John and his second wife Leona went on to be parents of seven children, six of whom lived to adulthood. Their first, Early Coatner Vaughan, died in 1907 at the age of 8, and was buried next to John's first wife Eva, their newborn baby, and John's brother Archibald in Choate Prairie Cemetery near Ulan. The others were, in order: Sampson Lafayette, Lou Ona, John Dodson, Charles Teddy, Nicey Jewell, and Dewey Miles. After giving birth to Nicey in 1909, Leona became very ill; it took her years to recover. When she finally had, she became pregnant with Dewey. Giving birth to Dewey nearly killed her; she apparently actually died momentarily after his birth before being resuscitated.


Leona Waller Vaughan with Sampson on her lap and Early Coatner to her side. Only known photo of Coatner, who died at age 8. 



John and his family, circa 1909. John is in the middle next to his wife, Leona Aden Waller. In the back are his children from his first marriage, Mattie Mae and William Riley "Bill" Vaughan. To his right are his sons Sampson Lafayette and John Dodson Vaughan. To his left is his daughter Lou Ona Vaughan, and on Leona's lap is his son Charles Teddy Vaughan.

Leona was never the same after that. She was able to nurse Dewey, but was unable to hold him during, so Lou would. She was able to cook for the family, but unable to do any lifting or major housework. In 1919, she was diagnosed with Pellagra, a devastating disease most common in 3rd world countries, typically caused by a vitamin deficiency; it can lead to a plethora of serious side effects, including but not limited to skin lesions, insomnia, weakness, sensitivity to sunlight, mental confusion, and eventually dementia. (Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pellagra). The doctors decided to try and cure her by cleansing her system with vials of rattlesnake venom. Her screams of agony proving too much to bear, John left the house mid-treatment to go down to the Scipio Creek to pray. When he returned, he found she had died on the second-to-last vial of venom with Lou by her side.

Another hardship befell the Vaughan family not long before Leona's death. John's oldest son, Bill, had married and had John's first grandchild, a little girl named Essie. John was reportedly very taken with the little baby. But she died, at apparently less than a year in age, and was buried out at Choate Prairie where John's first wife, two children, and brother also lie. His granddaughter Sharon White recalls being told that after Essie's death, John vowed not to allow himself to get too attached or close with any other grandchildren because the loss had effected him so deeply he could not bear another one.

Always looked to by his family, John persevered and led them through these hardships. He re-married in 1920 to Florence Bell Lytle, and continued to work on the farm, which he purchased with pension money he received for his father's Civil War service. He drew that pension from the time he was 14 until he was 21, and used the money to purchase his home near Ulan, Oklahoma; a small portion of the oil rights that land garnered remains in the Vaughan family to this day. He spent much time with his grandchildren, who all viewed him with awe and admiration.

Around the same time or shortly after his marriage to Florence, John was named one of two judges in Scipio Township. He presided over the Union Prairie precinct within the township, which later became Ulan. He would have heard only minor local cases. He held court in the Union Prairie/Ulan schoolhouse. His court clerks were J. P. Grantham and W. T. Rye.




Ulan/Union Prairie School, 1926. 

In addition to his own children and grandchildren, John took on the responsibility of raising step-children and other children who did not belong to him. When they married in 1920, Florence brought to John's home a 17-year old son, Raymond, 14-year old daughter Vertie, 11-year old daughter Clara, and 35-year old Maude, who was disabled. He helped care for Maude until her passing in 1932, and also regularly took in Florence's children and grandchildren when the need arose. In addition, school census records show that John was the guardian of Zular Westmoreland in 1926-1927. Zular was a son of Fannie Waller, a deceased sister of John's deceased wife, Leona. So even though he shared no blood with Zular, he took him in and had him in school for at least two years.


John Lafayette Vaughan circa 1920 with a jar of moonshine.

John's inclination to take in both Zular Westmoreland, and before that little Etta Archibald, in addition to his children and step-children is a testament to his nature. There have been conflicting reports in the family about John Vaughan's personality and character. His granddaughter Glenda reported that she was told John was a hard, mean, cruel man. Other grandchildren, including those who met him as children, reported him to be kind, doting, and of a cheerful disposition. As with anyone, perceptions of him surely varied based on the eye of the beholder, but most parties describe John as a compassionate, family-oriented man. His willingness to take in children that do not belong to him seemingly supports that illustration of the man.


John Lafayette Vaughan circa 1930. Note his earrings and the pistol strapped to his side, for which he well-known among his grandchildren.

The aforementioned Kenny Brown was the son of Leona Dickens Brown, a neighbor of the Vaughans who grew up in their area. Late in life she wrote a memoir about her childhood home and the people she knew, and she wrote of John Vaughan:

"There was another family who lived on Scipio Creek, northwest of Ulan. Their name was Vaughan. Where Mr. Lafayette Vaughan came from I never heard, but he was a good friend of Grandpa Dickens and my father. He was red headed, had a handle bar mustache, wore gold rings in his ears, a red bandanna handkerchief around his neck, and a big black stand up crown black hat."

At one time he said he rode with Belle Starr and her gang. Anyway, he knew some of them. He always said that he heard the shot that killed Belle Starr. My father always said that Mr. Vaughan (they called him Fayette) was superstitious. He always believed in stories about black cats and whipperwills singing or calling close to the house.

Mr. Vaughan had a good house or home, and we never knew how he managed to have a good place, land, and buildings. I remember he had a big pond and kept ducks. He had a big garden spot and an orchard, also a big yard with big trees. He usually celebrated his birthday by having a big crowd around, drinking and playing marbles, then a dance at night.

He had been married three times; his first and second wives died. By his first wife he had two children, a son, Bill, and a daughter, Mattie. ... My parents knew the second Mrs. Vaughan, and they liked her a lot. She and Mr. Vaughan had several kids--Sampson, Lou, Charlie, Nicie, and Dewey. We called Dewey "Cutter." Then after the second Mrs. Vaughan died, he married a widow that he had known for a long time. She lived at Blocker, and she had several kids. Her name was Autrey. 



John L. Vaughan and his third wife, Florence, with their Model T Ford. 

... The third Mrs. Vaughan was a short and heavy woman. Mr. Vaughan had a Model T Ford. He and Cutter would ride in the front seat, and she would ride in the back. I think he had the first car in the country around Ulan. People traveling in wagons would have to get a way out to the side of the road whenever they met Mr. Vaughan, for the teams to the wagons would get frightened and run away."


Lou Vaughan, John L. Vaughan, and Ola Autrey. 

In 1937, his son John Dodson Vaughan came down with pneumonia, and died at his home, leaving behind a widow and three children. His death proved too much to bear for John. He was always the prototypical male role-model: strong and invincible, feared and admired; devout, stern, fair, and kind. He was not a man easily shaken. But after having buried two wives and two children on top of all the other losses he had suffered throughout his lifetime, the loss of his beloved son John Dodson Vaughan finally broke him. He had to be carried out of the funeral.


This is a picture of John Lafayette's son, John Dodson Vaughan. This picture is noteworthy because the 30/30 Winchester rifle John is holding belonged to his father, as did the 1897 Model Winchester Shotgun leaning up against the house to the left of the dog. When John Lafayette died in 1944, his pistol was passed down to his grandson J.L. White, the 30/30 to his son-in-law Tony White, and his shotgun to his son Sampson Vaughan. 

After his son died, John saw to it that his fatherless grandchildren were well-taken care of. They would often walk to his farm to hear him to tell his stories for hours, some of which were so scary that Dewey would have to walk them home afterword. John's daughter Colleen had vivid memories of him and his kindness, including one night when they stayed at his home during a thunderstorm, and John comforted her when she was afraid of the lightning. He was a soft-spoken man, but one whose presence filled any room he was in, and a man who was immeasurably cherished by his family. He died September 20th, 1944 and was buried next to Leona in Ulan Cemetery.

McAlester News-Capital - 21 Sep 1944 - Page 2

J. L. Vaughan, of Ulan, passed away last night after a short illness. He had resided in this vicinity for the past 50 years.

Mr. Vaughan was born July 19, 1866, in Arkansas.

He is survived by his wife, Mrs. Florence Vaughan, three daughters and four sons. These are Mrs. Mattie Smith of McAlester, Mrs. Lou White, Detroit, Mich., Mrs. Nicie [Ross], Bakersfield, Calif., Willie Vaughan, Wewoka, S. L. Vaughan, McAlester, Charlie Vaughan and Dewey Vaughan, both of Ulan. There are also several grandchildren.

Funeral arrangements, not yet complete, will be announced later by Humphreys who have charge. 


Left to right: Charles Teddy Vaughan, Nicey Jewell Vaughan, John Lafayette Vaughan, Dewey Miles Vaughan, Lou Ona Vaughan, and Sampson Lafayette Vaughan. Taken circa 1940.


John Lafayette Vaughan in the late-1930's-to-early-1940's.


This is the Colt .45 pistol that belonged to John Lafayette Vaughan. He kept it at his side always, though none knew why with certainty. Most believe he was worried someone might come for him one day either because of something he knew or something he'd done, and he would have had to take care of them.


John Vaughan family in front of their home near Ulan, year unknown. John to the right. 


Gathering of Vaughan and Kelton families, late 1920s/early 1930s. John left and to the middle with his famous hat and mustache. 


John second from the left with various children and in-laws, likely in the mid-to-late 1930s. 


John Vaughan family in front of their home, year unknown. John in middle with rifle. Courtesy of Jerry White.